Last week I used these hidden magnetic snaps several times to try various ways to attach them. Mostly I used these plain ones, but I also used a set in vinyl, to compare the two types.
This post is long, so I'm going to talk about these in 3 parts: Update: This post has been updated to include what would have been parts 2 & 3.
1. Plain ones
2. Vinyl ones
3. Magnets and electronics/other options for attaching them
First of all, these hidden ones are great for accessories. The prong style magnetic snaps are nice too, but if I had to pick between the two, these hidden ones are my favorite. Here's why:
- They are low-profile and look really professional.
- When you pull them apart to open something, the fabric doesn't strain. Sometimes with the prong ones I use my fingernail to help separate them because I can see they are stressing the fabric.
- You don't have to cut the fabric and then attempt to reinforce the cut edges with FrayCheck.
- No folding the prongs. It is just nice to not have the prongs to deal with at all.
- When you are finishing up, you don't have to worry about scratching the snaps if they pass over the throat plate.
The Basics
There are two parts. One is positive and one is negative--I'm not sure which is which really. But these particular one are different colors so you can tell them apart. Sometimes they aren't different colors, but they should come to you separated into two distinct groupings.
In the pictures you can see one is sort of a brass color (+) and the other silver (-). I'm considering the brass ones positive and the silver negative, just so there is a reference. You need one of each to make a set.
One side of each snap has a cap and the other is flat. The flat sides are the sides that need to meet to create the magnetic field.
Below I'll talk about what I do to keep the sides straight when you are sewing. Sometimes it is enough to be thinking about how and where to attach them--you don't need to have to be wondering if the right sides are facing too.
Besides telling them apart and knowing which sides are attracted to each other, you want to keep them apart. This isn't as big a deal if they are in a vinyl casing, but if they don't have a casing, you may have a very hard time getting them back apart.
Here is what happens if they get together:
This didn't happen by accident. They are very magnetic, but won't fly together unless you let it happen. I was playing around and stuck them together. Now I'm not sure I can get them apart...
With these plain ones many times you'll need/want to make a casing for them. In part 3 (later this week), I'll talk about using them without a casing.
The casing only takes a few seconds to make and it lets you pin them in place. As you can imagine, when you sit down at your machine these little discs can be attracted to your presser foot, throat plate, scissors, etc. Being able to pin them in place is one of the main benefits of these plain ones in a fabric casing.
The Casing
A color coded sytem for the casings will help you know when you have a set, and which sides need to face each other.
I use plain white or other light colored fabric for one side and two different prints for the other. The flat side always goes to the white/light fabric, and the domed side faces the print.
The two different prints signify (+) and (-), and the light fabric is the layer that will be closest to the exterior/lining fabric. Since it is white/light it isn't as likely to show through the lining or exterior fabric.
I hand baste them between the fabric. Generally I'd use a light colored thread (the showing thing again), but used green so it is easy to see in the photos. They don't need too much sewing to secure them, so just a few stitches around the outside is fine.
I did try machine basting them into the casings and it took more time than the hand stitching. I also tried fusing them between fabric and fusible interfacing. That worked alright, but one did escape where the interfacing didn't fuse well.
So I'll stick with hand stitching, but the fusing might be a great option if you are careful to make sure all edges fuse well.
Then I trim the fabric so there is still about 0.75" around the magnet. That leaves enough to sew and also some to pin.
Now I have a sweet little set:
The two prints show they are different polarity and I know I need one of each print to make a set.
The white fabric sides tell me these sides need to meet to make the magnetic field.
When you receive them, you may want to just sit down and put them all in casings. That solves the keeping them apart thing.
Once you've figured out where they go on your project, you can sew them in place.
Sewing Them
All you need to do is sew in a circle around the magnets. That might sound daunting, but it is not difficult. The magnet helps guide you around, and of course, the more you do it, the better you get!
Here are the basics/tips:
- Match your thread to the fabric so any wonky stitches aren't as obvious.
- Use the zipper foot so you can sew really close to the edge.
- Sew with the flat side up when possible. If the flat magnetic side faces your throat plate it is going stick and it will be harder to sew around them.
- Lengthen your stitch to around 3.
- Make sure your machine is in needle down--at some point you will probably need to stop and manually pivot slightly.
- The magnet will lay down flat once your zipper foot is resting solidly on the edge. If you put the foot down and it isn't quite on the edge, you will see the magnet pushing up under the fabric. This is kind of like how if you want to pick up a flat, round object you would push just on the very lip to get it to flip up and no longer lay flat. Make sure it isn't pushing up before you start to sew.
- Go slow if you need to, but momentum can be helpful too. Once you do a few, you will be surprised by how fast you can zip around these magnets!
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Update: Here is more info about these snaps. I think I've rambled on long enough. You can ask specific questions in the comments.
Vinyl: You can buy these snaps in a pre-made vinyl casing on etsy. The vinyl ones are great too. They can't be pinned in place. I find them slightly more difficult to sew in a circle around because it is hard to feel the snap edges through the vinyl. The edges of the vinyl pocket are stiff and you can feel them through the fabric. If I'm feeling ambitious, I cut them out of the vinyl and put them in a fabric casing. That takes care of the the cons of the vinyl pocket ones.
Magnets and Your Gadgets/Cards: This topic comes up over and over. Most electronics these days generally do NOT use the type of magnetic storage (think floppy disks) that can be ruined by magnets. Other things might happen, but none of them seem serious to me.
In my personal opinion, most magnets are not strong enough to do damage. I have a wallet with sew-in magnetic snaps that I keep both my iPhone and credit/debit cards inside...2+ years later nothing has happened to either one.
But that is just my personal opinion on the subject. If you are concerned about using magnets, listen to your intuition and don't use them.
Here are a few specifics:
iPad: The iPad has magnets inside the frame at the bottom. They help turn it on and off using the Smart Cover. The only concern I'd have with using magnets in a case is they might turn the iPad on/off.
iPhone: From what I understand, magnets "can" interfere with the iPhone compass. That doesn't mean they will, but if they did cause any problems you might have to recalibrate your compass (if you even use it!).
Credit/debit cards: The swipe stripe would probably need to pass directly through the magnetic field in order to cause any problems. The only way I can imagine this causing a problem is if you closed the flap so the two magnets were together, and then deliberately swiped the card between the two magnets.
