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Quick Tip for Joining Binding Strips Perfectly

How to Join Binding Strips Perfectly

This week I'm making some skinny binding to use in a special project with the paper pieced sewing machine.  There are some fun paper pieced projects out there, but the ways you might traditionally use the finished pieces are not really my style.  I like my wall hangings to be a bit more abstract and weird, my pillows basic patchwork or mostly solid, and my tote bags on the plain side. 

But I've been thinking about other ways to incorporate paper piecing into projects and have an idea for the sewing machine.  I think it is going to be both cute and useful!  When it's done I'll share what I've made. 

In the meantime, I have a trick for sewing binding together, and thought you might like to know about it too.

I enjoy the process of cutting, sewing and pressing binding.  Which is sort of funny because unless I'm binding something large/squarish (mostly quilts) projects requiring bound edges are not my favorite.  If I see a pattern for something small with bound edges, it kills my interest.  It just takes too much time and is really hard to do well.   

But binding most definitely has a place in sewing, and even though the process of joining the strips is easy, I've had my share of sewing misadventures when stitching the pieces together. 

So here is my trick for joining the strips together perfectly (i.e. straight). 

The usual way I see binding strips being joined is to match the edges of each piece at a 90 degree angle, and then sew them together on the diagonal:

The problem with this is it can be hard to get off to a smooth start when sewing the seam because there isn't a lot of stability with just the two layers of fabric.  Most of the time I get at least a small nest of tangled thread at the start and the end.  Starching the strips can help, but starch is always a last resort for me. 

Then if you don't sew just PERFECTLY to the bottom intersection where the pieces meet, the strips end up uneven.  Either the sides where they join are uneven, or the strips are not attached in one straight, continuous piece. 

In the past, when I used this method to sew binding I'd match the edges, look underneath to make sure I knew exactly where the seam needed to end, pin the pieces well, mark the seam, etc.  And still I'd end up with wacky strips! 

What I do now is super simple...Instead of matching the edges I overlap them a bit like this:

Having those extra bits of fabric along the sides gives stability and makes it a lot easier to start and end the seam.  Then I can also see exactly where the seam must end to have the strips joined perfectly.   

Once it is time to sew, it is really easy to just line the pieces up straight and sew straight down to the corner:

After stitching, I trim the extra fabric away and press the seam open.

The pieces are in pinned in the photos here, but usually I don't pin them.  The pins were really to remind myself to take pictures, and I forgot to take them out. You can of course pin if you need some extra stability. More and more, I'm trying to skip pins for the sake of efficiency.   

So next time you are joining fabric strips, give this a try.  There is no marking, no pinning, and they turn out perfect!

Everything I Know About Snaps (So Far)

I've used prong style snaps on a few things lately, and a couple people wrote asking some questions about using them.  So here is some info if you are curious about them!

This won't go over the basic installation instructions, because whatever tool you use will come with its own instructions.  This is more about the snaps in general, some tools you can use to install them, the pliers I use, and some other tips from my own experience.

General Stuff

These snaps are fantastic for a bunch of reasons:

• Economical - Packaged snaps run about $3.50 - $4.50 for sets of 10 - 12.  If you buy them online, you can sometimes get even better prices if you buy them in larger quantities. 

• Easy to Find - The Dritz ones are very widely available and I see more and more of the Snap Source snaps in shops.  Just about every fabric store has at least a small selection of snaps.

• Variety - They come in a variety of sizes/styles/colors.  Some are really basic, and a bunch are more decorative.  The size refers to the size of the cap.  The larger the number, the bigger the cap.  Personally, I like the "jumbo" size 24 ones for accessories.  The Snap Source Long-Prong jumbo snaps are my current favorite. 

• Washable - Most can be machine washed and are rust proof.  The package generally states "machine washable" if you need this feature.

• Durable - They seem to last forever.

• Replaceable - If one happens to have a problem, just remove it and replace it.

• Secure - Once they are snapped in place, they are not going to open until you open them.

• Quick to Install - It takes under a minute to add them once you have the process down.  Usually they'll go on at the very end of your project, and it is just very satisfying to get them on so quickly and be done!

The Parts

There are four parts:

1. Cap - Top of the snap with prongs on the back to hold the socket in place.  It is also called the "decorative prong". 

2. Socket - Accepts the stud and also holds the cap in place.

3. Stud - Goes in the socket.

4. Open-Prong Ring - Holds the stud in place.

Some Tool Options

There are different options for installing them.  Sometimes you can find kits with a basic tool included, but usually you'll need a separate tool or method of applying them.  Here are some options:

• No Tool - I've heard of people using a wooden spool and a hammer.  It sounds terrible to me and isn't a method I'd ever try.  But hey, if want to try it, go for it!  Most methods just need some practice and then you are all set. 

• Plastic Snap Installation Tools - Perhaps these have a name?  All I know is they are not my favorite snap setting tool. Several years ago when I bought my first snaps, I went ahead and bought the plastic tools for 3 sizes of snaps (each size requires its own special attachment).  Then I proceeded to smash the top of every snap I used them on.  I don't like them, but do think if I'd practiced more I would have gotten beyond the smashing stage.  However, for the price of multiple tools and all the practice time, I still think the next option makes more sense...

• Dritz Snap Pliers - This is the next step on the snap tool ladder, and perfect for anyone who uses snaps occasionally to fairly regularly.  The pliers cost around $20 and are widely available.  They are useful for several snaps sizes and styles, and also install eyelets. 

• Snap Press - This is the pinacle of snap installation. If you use snaps regularly, this is probably what you'll eventually need.  These snaps are very addicting, so you could find yourself at the snap press stage pretty quickly.  I don't really know much about snap presses, but want one anyway!  Perhaps someone with a press will leave a comment and tell us a little about them.

• Kit with Tool - I haven't tried out these heavy duty snaps yet, but they came with a tool similar to what you might use to install a grommet. 

Just looking at it, I'm pretty sure there will be some smashed snaps at first.  The black thing is hard plastic, but I'll make an effort to be gentle.  I will report back after trying these out...

Dritz Snap Pliers

So these are what I have and here are some general tips for using them:

Before opening the package, write the snap sizes on the back with the instructions. 

The text showing the sizes is under the plastic part of the package and rips off with the plastic.

For the longest time, I had no idea what size snaps these worked with besides #16!  Guess I could have looked at a picture of them online, but I didn't.  When I went to Bolt the other day, I spent some time looking at the package front and discovered they also worked with "jumbo" snaps.     

Keep the instructions.  I still look at them every time, but I'm getting closer to having it down.  If I don't use them for several months though, I'll probably forget.  

Don't lose the yellow adapter.  This is what you need for larger snaps.  It is just a tiny plastic part, so keep it safe.  After looking at the pliers at Bolt, I thought for sure I'd lost the yellow adapter, since I hadn't seen it since opening the package 2+ years ago.  But it was in my sewing room and now it's being stored with the pliers and snaps. 

Load the pronged parts into the pliers last.  Then you won't scratch up your fingers when you load the stud or socket parts.  Learned this the hard way...and it took multiple snaps to finally get it.

Practice.  These take a firm, but gentle approach.  With too much pressure, the pearl snaps crack and the metal snaps dent.  You will get the feel for it with some practice. 

Sometimes you might find they need just a little more squeeze after you've installed them.  Cover the snap with a scrap of fabric or batting and give them another pinch around the edges using regular pliers. 

You might also keep a practice snap installed on a scrap of fabric with your snap tools and parts for reference.  It's helpful to have an installed one to look at if you get confused about the parts.

Pay attention to the socket.  This piece is the part I had a hard time seeing which side is which.  Now I know that the part that looks like a flower is the side the stud goes into and the other side is where the prongs enter to hold it in place.

Snap Placement 

The last bit of advice I have is to consider where these will be placed.  The pouch in the photos above has quite a long flap, so my first attempt at adding the snaps to the pouch portion was tricky. 

They needed to be placed fairly low down on the pouch so I had to get a lot of fabric into the pliers.  It was not easy, but now I see that folding the fabric down helps a lot. 

Since I like to add the snaps to the flap first, this was something that didn't cross my mind until it was too late. 

Just keep in mind there will only be so much fabric you can get into the pliers to install the snap parts.  The eyelet installation part gets in the way and there is only so much space in the pliers.  The closer the snaps can be to the edge, the easier it is going to be to install them.

Ok, happy snapping!

 

 

 

 

How to Make a Perfect Pull Tab

 

iPad Sleeve with pull tab (made with the Just Pattern Pieces - Tablet Computer Sleeves)

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Back on this post, I wrote a little about this pull tab.  I like them a lot--especially for things with VELCRO closures.  It gives you something to grab to pull back the flap. 

It also satisfies my need for some small detail on the front.  I end up using buttons as embellishments quite a bit, because things sometimes look like they just need *something* to be complete.

These can be sewn a variety of ways, but I thought I'd share my method.  I tried a few other ways before coming to the conclusion this is my favorite way to sew them.  The finished tab is solid and neatly square.  It is easy, fast, you don't have to turn anything right side out, and there aren't any corners to clip. Yay!!!

Before going into a bunch of detail for those who don't need it...this is basically single fold binding (both edges folded to center) with interfacing in the center, folded in half, topstitched and sewn in place.

This is also the same general idea used for this strap (1.75" eyelet can be found here):

 

1. Determine Width & Cut

The tab can be any width and you can improvise most of this, so feel free to skip exact measurements.  The only things you want to make sure to do is to cut the entire piece the same exact width--whatever number you use--so the tab ends up even and square. 

However wide you want the finished tab, multiply that by 2.  The red striped tab is 1.5" when finished.  So the piece is 3" wide. 

Then however tall you want it, multiply that by 3.  This can be a guestimate.  The red one is going to end up being 1.25" tall before sewing it on, so it is just easier to work with a slightly taller piece and cutting it down to size right before attaching. 

I'm also making multiple tabs at a time here, so this piece is much longer than needed for just one. 

2. Cut it Out

3. Crease Center

Fold it in half, WRONG sides together, along the length. 

Press gently to crease the center.  This crease is a guideline, so just press it once to make a visible crease.  You want it to come out later, so don't go nuts making is super sharp.

4. Press Edges to Center

Open it up and press each raw edge to meet the center crease. 

At this point, the center crease often disappears because it gets flattened when pressing each side to the center.  If not, press the whole thing again to get rid of the center crease. 

5. Apply Interfacing

Cut a piece of fusible interfacing wide enough to fit inside the center. Make sure the edges are within the center and don't extend into the side creases.

Place the interfacing inside and fold the edges of the fabric over it so it is encased in the center. 

Press on each side of the fabric to adhere the interfacing.

6. Fold in Half

Fold the piece in half along the width.  If your fabric is puckering at the fold, get out your metal ruler and wrap the fabric around it to make a sharp fold.

7. Topstitch

Topstitch the sides and bottom.

8. Trim

When using a 3/8" allowance, I like this tab to be 1.25" high before sewing it on.  So trim it down to whatever height you want to be + allowance.

   

9. Attach

Baste it to the center top of the flap, or wherever you are attaching it. 

For those new to sewing, you might wonder why the print is upside down?  For things where the flap/back is one piece (a lot of my patterns have this), the print will be reversed once the flap closes.   

Some of my patterns you could use pull tab on are:

Idea Pouch

Padded Camera Pouch

Pleated Pouches

Laptop Sleeve

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Belted Tote in Grey Melton Wool + Tip for Strap Turning

This summer I used this linen version of the Belted Tote quite a bit.  The fabric was not good quality, so it didn't take long before it wore through and an ever growing hole developed on the back.  :0[

But fall is here, so it is time for a wool bag!  Yesterday I finished making a Belted Tote shown above.  It is a very dark grey Melton wool. 

Last week I pulled out a few wools and started thinking about making a bag, but the thing that tripped me up was I wanted the straps to be wool too.  Wool is a pleasure to sew, but it gets bulky really fast. 

So the method of folding the strap piece and enclosing the raw edges in the center does not work.  It is pretty much impossible to get four layers of wool under the presser foot. 

The other option of turning a strap right side out is something I dread--I just don't have the patience for it, and it is so hard your fingers. 

But recently I saw a tutorial via Pinterest that gave the perfect solution for turning a strap right side out!  Sadly, I didn't pin the tutorial.  If you pinned it, please drop a link to the original in the comments and I'll link to it. 

Here is the basic idea:

Cut a piece of ribbon 1-2" longer than your strap. Center the ribbon down the length of the strap piece on the RIGHT side of the fabric.  Stitch the ribbon in place on one end.  Sew it down well.

Fold the strap in half, RIGHT sides together, encasing the ribbon in the center.  Pin down the length making sure the ribbon stays in the center.

Sew the length of the strap, making sure not to stitch through the ribbon. 

Tuck the end with the sewn ribbon down into the tube to get it started.

Gently pull the other end of the ribbon to turn the strap right side out. 

 

 

eReader Pouch

 

When I discovered the large Pleated Pouch fits an eReader, with some room left over on the sides, the next step was to make it a bit more fitted.  So this is the same large Pleated Pouch from the other day, but it has some modifications I wanted to share.

Here is a brief summary of the changes, and you can read on if you'd like more info (this post is really loooong):

1) Decreased width by 3/8" at the center ("place on fold" edge) of both pattern pieces.

2) Made piece B taller so more of this print would show on the flap.

3) Added interfacing to lining A.

4) Trimmed interfacing for lining A to make it easier to topstitch pleats.

5) Quilted lining B horizontally every 2" starting from the bottom of the piece.

First I want to show you my original pattern pieces.  They are laying on top a piece of chipboard:

These days, I tape my pattern pieces to chipboard and then cut them out.  The pattern pieces work ok just as paper, but the chipboard makes them sturdy and easy to trace around with chalk or a pen.  If you plan to make multiples of any item, you will thank yourself later for taking the time to make the pieces easier to use and longer lasting. 

You can find chipboard lots of places--including your recycle bin. Cereal and cracker boxes work well.  But they often have creases where they were folded into box shapes, so I just buy chipboard and keep it on hand.  The straight edges of the purchased pieces are also easier to join for taping if you need a big piece.

The store in Portland where I used to buy chipboard went out of business, so now I order it online from Kraft Outlet.  There are plenty of places to buy it online, but I started shopping at Kraft Outlet because they have lots of other kraft paper things--I love that stuff! 

There is something comforting about kraft paper.  Maybe because many of us have spent our entire lives exposed to it through paper grocery bags, lunch sacks, etc.  The natural woody texture and color are appealing, but it is probably the food association that really does it for me!

Anyway, back to the sewing.

1) For this pouch I took 3/8" off the center. In the photo above, you can see the faint lines where I marked 3/8" from the "place on fold" center edges.  It was super simple to align those lines with one straight edge of a piece of chipboard and then just trace new pieces.  Here are my new ones:

2) For this clutch, I wanted the flap slightly longer to show of the fabric print better.  Which, of course, I decided AFTER remaking my pieces. 

Rather than confuse myself with a 3rd set of pattern pieces, I just faked it during cutting.  I began tracing the B pattern piece and when I got to the straight part of the side edge, I slid the pattern piece down an inch. Another great thing about the chipboard pieces is they don't need pinning and can just be held in place while tracing the outline.  

The hardest part was remembering to cut out all the pieces with the extended height!  It is easy to go auto-pilot during cutting.  I managed to remember, BUT then I forgot to move the VELCRO down.  Oy.  Since the front pouch has so much expandability, it wasn't hard to resew the VELCRO piece to the pouch at a lower place.  Inconvenient and a silly mistake, yes, but thankfully not a big deal in the end. 

3 & 4) Because of the pleats, this pouch is a challenge to pad on the front.  There are probably ways to do it, but they might not be worth the effort.  But one quick thing you can do is add another layer of interfacing. 

Generally, I'm not a big fan of using fusible interfacing on the lining pieces.  Linings are often a lighter color fabric, and don't have a busy print, so those tell-tale signs the interfacing is peeling away from the fabric are more obvious. The times I make an exception for this are when the piece doesn't fold, the piece is really small (less area for peeling to happen), or some stitching will help hold the interfacing in place. 

In this case, topstitching the pleats helps hold the interfacing in place, so I wasn't concerned about peeling.  Since the folds of the pleats already add some additional layers of fabric to sew through, I removed some interfacing from one of the A interfacing pieces to make it easier to topstitch the pleats and sew at the bottom.  

I trimmed away the interfacing about 0.5" on each side of the pleat marks at both the top and bottom.  Several of my patterns have this type of strategic trimming and the few extra seconds of work are worth the effort. It will make sewing multiple layers less frustrating and give you better finished results.

This is what your (still folded) interfacing piece will look like:

You could trim both interfacing pieces, but it is probably isn't necessary.  I apply the trimmed interfacing piece to lining A, and the untrimmed piece to the exterior fabric A piece. 

5) The final change is the lining B piece is lightly quilted.  I used cotton batting and muslin backing to make the "quilt sandwich".  Because the back and flap are one piece for these pouches, I stitched the quilting lines horizontally so they would be parallel to the fold when the flap is closed. 

Ok, that was a lot of words!  Time for me to be quiet now. 

 

 

 

 

 

Tips for Installing Eyelets

So the new pattern is coming very soon.  I'm aiming for Friday.  The instructions are written and tested, but I'm making some adjustments to the pattern pieces. 

In the meantime, I wanted to share a couple things about eyelets for anyone who hasn't used them before. 

First mark the placement and cut a small X shape through the fabric:

The eyelets will have 2 parts--one longer piece and one shorter.  The longer piece goes on the front (right side of fabric) and the shorter piece goes on the back.  I'll show you why at the end...

To attach the pieces together you can either buy an eyelet tool that looks something like this (there are a few different ones, but same basic idea):

These will be with the eyelet packages in the notions section.  The idea is you hammer the eyelet between the two pieces.  It is easy, but it can take a few good whacks to get the eyelet tightly together. 

Or a better option is to invest in a pair of these pliers:

These pliers work for both snaps and eyelets.  The bottom piece rotates so you can change it from a snap setter to an eyelet setter.  The photo shows them set for eyelets.

One firm squeeze over the eyelet is all it takes:

Here is the back side after the eyelet is installed:

You can see where the longer piece has flattened into the shorter piece to hold them together.  It leaves some raw looking edges that are best hidden from view.

Ok, I'm getting back to the pattern now!