This was made using the pouch size pieces from the Card Wallets pattern. Because the flap is longer on this pouch than most of my other patterns, it's a good one for patchwork. There's more room to work with the pieces and you can see more of them on the finished pouch.
FYI: When I make patchwork for smaller pouches I foundation piece the fabric to flannel. Batting can be too thick and puffy for smaller things. I think many of us have been to the thick and puffy point of ruin where the project no longer works because there is just too much stuff inside.
Someone also asked me about interfacing patchwork, and I don't use interfacing on patchwork. I thought I'd mention it because she was under the impression interfacing was being applied to the fabric scraps.
I think I like #5 so much because it's square, which makes it easier to make log cabin style patchwork. It also doesn't look square (at least to me), so I find it sort of visually interesting. Maybe the zipper at the top draws the up eye upward and that's why it seems taller than it is wide, even though it's actually not.
A few weeks ago I needed some 1/2" hexagon paper pieces, but didn't want to run out to the fabric store. Sometimes they don't have all the sizes in stock, which made me feel even less motivated to make the drive.
But I still wanted those paper pieces, and I started thinking about how they could easily be printed at home if I took the time to make some printable sheets. So I sat down and made a document with 1/2" hexagons shapes, and since these are fun to paper piece in any size, I thought I might as well make pages for them in a bunch of sizes!
Print the hexagons on 67lb Vellum Bristol paper. This is the same weight paper as pre-cut hexagons, and a ream can be found in almost any office supply store. This paper is also fantastic for printing out your sewing pattern pieces! It's stiff enough to easily trace around the outline and your pattern pieces will last longer than ones printed on regular printer paper.
If you like to paper piece hexagons, or want to try (it's really relaxing), you can order a copy of this document. Then you'll always have easy access to paper pieces in a variety of sizes and can just print them out as needed.
The base fabric is chambray shirting fabric. A light weight cotton is perfect and a solid, near solid, or subtle print is probably easiest to use as a base fabric. The additional patches will start to add weight, and even though this bag is small, it feels very nice to hold.
The patchwork is inspired by "Boro". This blog post is a great place to read more about this traditional Japanese patchwork. Boro is usually done in indigo fabrics, so I stuck to my blue fabric scraps. Next time I might do this in more colorful prints. I love the blue, but think it will be a good challenge for me to make this in some other colors. It's more of a composition than the pieced patchwork I've done in the past. It didn't require a lot of thought, but things did get moved around before being stitched in place.
I cut the bag body pieces out and then free hand trimmed 3 larger scraps (for each side) and stitched them to the chambray. Then smaller pieces were added on top. The fun thing about this is you can put fabrics over the top and under other patches.
The 3 main pieces I kept towards the center of the bag. Then I did make sure some patches went all the way to the edges of the bag. Others are just floating in the middle.
My basic strategy for the prints was to include some stripes, dots, and florals.
A 2.2 stitch length was used since the edges are raw and will fray. Some patches I stitched around twice because the fabric weave is loose. You can tell how tight the weave is by how visible the threads are when just looking at the surface and also how much it frays. Loose weave = lots of fraying.