{Keyka Lou Patterns}

Protecting Magnetic Snaps from Scratches

It is easy to scratch magnetic snaps if you have some machine sewing to do after they are inserted.  All it takes is one drag across your machine plate to add a few scratches. 

They sometimes aren't perfect to begin with and will get scratched a bit over time just from use, but if you are selling finished goods you will want to keep them in the best shape possible for your customer by not adding any additional imperfections. 

To protect the snap cover it with a medium weight fabric scrap or batting scrap using two pins to hold the scrap in place while you finish sewing.  This usually only needs to be done on the female snap half for the Curvy Clutch, Box Wallet, Business Card Wallet & Pyramid Pouch patterns (or any other project where the snap will pass over the machine plate). 

Remember to make sure the pins won't get in the way of your machine needle...:0] 

Interfacing (aka stabilizer) Information

Interfacing is a used to make fabric firmer and to help the fabric hold its shape where structure is needed.  It is generally applied to the wrong side of the exterior fabric of accessories and in clothes is often used in cuffs, collars and shirt facings.

There are two types and styles of interfacing: woven/non-woven & iron-on (fusible)/sew-in. 

:::: Woven Interfacing :::

This type of interfacing has visible threads and looks much like regular fabric.  Like fabric woven interfacing has a grain that should be followed during cutting.

I prefer woven interfacing because it generally has a firmer hold and doesn’t tend to bubble and wrinkle as much as the non-woven type.  My favorite woven interfacing is Form Flex All-Purpose.  I find it works well on most quilting cottons.  If Form Flex isn't available I use Pellon Stacy Shape Flex. 

:::: Non-Woven Interfacing ::::

This interfacing is made from fibers pressed together and has a gauze-like appearance and usually has a stippled texture.  I think this interfacing is really useful in clothing construction, but I never use it for accessories.  It is very easy to melt into a useless mess of wrinkles and it separates from fabric easily.  I've also never encountered a non-woven that gives much structure. 

:::: Iron-On/Fusible Interfacing ::::

This type of interfacing is applied to the fabric using an iron to melt the adhesive side of the interfacing to the fabric. The adhesive side is the shiny side and it needs to be placed with the adhesive facing the wrong side (back side) of your fabric.  When you purchase iron-on interfacing the fabric store will include the manufacturer instructions regarding iron temperature and how long to press to adhere it to the fabric. 

When applying iron-on interfacing don’t move your iron around like you are pressing wrinkles from fabric.  Simply heat up your iron to the recommended temp and place the iron face down on the wrong side (non-adhesive) of the interfacing in one spot.  Leave the iron in place for the recommended time and then move it to the next section.  Continue until you have adhered the interfacing to the entire fabric piece and then leave the fabric in place (as in don't move it) until it has cooled. 

When using iron-on interfacing I usually cut the pieces about 1/8" smaller than the fabric piece.  This gets rid of some bulk in the seams, but most importantly it keeps the edges of the interfacing from creeping past your fabric edge and adhering to your ironing board.  It might not seem like a big deal but as time goes by the interfacing adhesive collects on your ironing board and ultimately transfers to your iron.  This black gunk then ends up on your fabric when you are ironing and can leave black stains on your fabric, which of course isn't very fun or attractive.

:::: Sew-In Interfacing ::::

Sew-in interfacing does not have an adhesive side.  It is less expensive, has fewer chemicals, and doesn’t separate from the fabric creating wrinkles and puckers and holds up to washing much better than iron-on interfacing.  It is placed on the wrong side of the fabric and pinned in place rather than adhered with adhesive. 

Sew-in interfacing is generally woven (though I think non-woven is available) so it has a definite fabric grain that should be followed during cutting.  Launder sew-in interfacing before use.

I'm becoming a big fan of the sew-in interfacing, especially for bags and larger accessories.  Sew-in interfacing doesn't offer quite the firmness of iron-on but its redeeming qualities make it a very attractive option.  For bags that might be laundered more than once or twice during their useful life sew-in interfacing is the very best option. 

Sewing Through Thick Layers of Fabric

Sewing through thick layers of fabric can be a real challenge.  When making bags often the trickiest parts to sew are straps and the side seams where you can end up with a lot of bulk. 

Here are some tips for dealing with thick fabric/multiple layers: 

1. Get rid of as much bulk as possible.  For side seams I trim away as much as possible of any additional lining layers (in my patterns this is the "invisible lining").  You want to trim close to the stitching but still leave the stitches intact:

Then pressing--either with your iron or finger pressing--the side seams open flat will help immensely. 

2. Use the hand wheel to sew across any thick areas.  After breaking multiple needles attempting to sew through thick fabric I've gotten in the habit of sewing all my side seams and any areas with multiple layers of fabric using the hand wheel.  So any time I'm attaching a flap or strap or sewing the Curvy Clutch wristlet strap I'm using the hand wheel.

 

3. Use a larger needle size.  I switch up to a size 16 (100) needle once I get to the step of attaching the lining to the bag.

4. Purchase a special tool like a Jean-a-ma-jig or Hump Jumper.  These are inexpensive tools that look pretty useful.  I just bought a Jean-a-ma-jig but haven't used it yet. 

How to Slip Stitch a Seam Closed

Sewing the opening closed where you turned a bag right side out isn't difficult but it can certainly be ugly and obvious if not done well.  Here is an easy way to get nice results when slip stitching your seams closed.

1. Sew the opening closed first.  Whenever pattern instructions say "leave an opening for turning" go ahead and sew it closed first.  If you follow the instructions below you'll have a nice crease to follow when it is time to sew it shut.

Simply back stitch where your opening will begin.  Then lengthen your stitch (makes it easier to remove the stitches later) and sew the length of your opening.  At the end back stitch again. 

Now warm up your iron and press this seam open flat. 

Using your seam ripper, remove the long stitches in between the back stitching on both ends.

Viola!  You now have a nice crease to follow when slip stitching your opening closed. Even if it isn't perfectly pressed you should still be able to see the faint stitch line left from the removed stitches, which you can then use as your guide.

2. Close the seam.

Thread your needle and tie a knot in the end.  Insert your needle from the underside of the crease coming out right in the crease line.  I start in the middle of the opening. Pull the thread through so the knot is resting on the back side of the crease out of sight.

 

Directly on the other side of your seam, insert the needle and gently but firmly pull the fabric together.  Slide the needle through the underside of the casing created by the crease and come up out of the fabric about 1/4" from the insertion point. 

Insert the needle again directly across from where you just came up out of the fabric.  Slip the needle through the casing again another 1/4" or so and come up.  Repeat this the length of the opening.

If you started in the middle you will need to turn at the end and go back to close the other side.  I usually go back and forth a few times myself.  The first time I make just a few stitches that are widely spaced apart.  Then when I turn around and come back I sew in between the existing stitches.  It seems easier to get a nice even look doing it this way.  You can use the second--or even third--set of stitches to fine tune and smooth out any parts that might get a little bumpy.

Once the opening is completely closed tie off on one of the existing stitches by coming out of the fabric right next to one of the stitches and then inserting your needle under the stitch.  This will leave you with a loop of thread you can pass your needle through to create a knot. 

Once the knot is in place insert your needle into the fabric right next to the knot and slip the needle through the casing about 1/4" -1/2" and then come out.  Pull the thread firmly and the knot will be pulled down into the crease making it less visible.  Snip your thread and you're done.

 

 

How to Insert Magnetic Snaps

Magnetic snaps are fabulous!  They are inexpensive and very easy to install.  But you can go beyond just cutting two slits and popping in the snap and do a few simple extra steps to make them less likely to rip or wear through your fabric. 

Here are some basics about the snaps and the process I use to insert snaps on flaps. 

1. The Parts.

Below are the parts needed to install a snap.  For items with a flap or strap I always use the male part on the flap or strap or whatever part you would pull to separate the snap pieces from one another.  For lack of a better way to phrase it, the female part is always on the receiving end. 

2. Size and magnetism. 

Since most the items I sell are on the smaller side I buy 14mm snaps as my all purpose snaps.  18mm are also common and easy to find on etsy or ebay.  I definitely recommend buying them online to get a good price.  When I see them in sewing shops they are often priced at $2.00 - $3.00 for ONE snap.

Some of the snaps will come with an indication of the strength of the magnetic bond.  Several years ago I bought the snaps below from JoAnn's and as you can see they are on the higher end of the magnetic scale.  I could not even separate the snap parts from each other!  The other snap that is not shown is pretty mangled from trying--ineffectually--to use pliers to separate it.  Eventually I gave up.  Look for snaps that are medium strength. 

3. Lining and Interfacing. 

If the fabric piece where the snap will be attached is NOT interfaced I always use an extra layer of lining behind my regular lining.  This serves two purposes--snap reinforcement and it also adds some extra weight and durability to the item. 

For flaps I also frequently use another layer of thinner cotton on the opposite side from where the snap will be.  This makes the snap prongs harder to feel (and see) through the fabric and it acts as a buffer layer for the fabric that will be in contact with the snap prongs.  The prongs are often rough along the edges and I worry they might wear through the fabric. 

   

In the picture above the snap would be attached through the green dot fabric and the next fabric layer.  The light pink layer would be the buffer layer on the backside of the snap prongs.

4. Marking Snap Placement.

Use the snap bracket as a guideline to mark where to cut the slits for the prongs. This will ensure that you only cut them as big as needed to get the prongs through.

I recently started using Fray Check on the slits to seal the edges of the fabric and hopefully prevent ripping.  Just dab a little of the sealant on the cuts and then insert your snap before the Fray Check dries. 

5. Cotton Batting.

Finally I use a small square of cotton batting to back the snap and act as a buffer between the snap bracket and prongs and the layers of fabric it is attached to.  You can use any scrap of fabric for this but I like the cotton batting because you the flatten prongs will sink into the batting making it harder to feel them on the finished item. It also acts as second reinforcement layer for the snap.  Basically the more fabric behind the snap the less stress each layer of fabric will have and they'll be less like to rip. 

Then simply flatten the prongs down using pliers. 

Shaping with the Iron

Often when I'm finished sewing something I go back and shape it up a bit with my iron.  This is especially helpful with the Box Wallet, which I'll use as the example:

1. Stuff the wallet with paper (plain grocery sacks cut into smaller pieces work great). 

2. Warm up iron

3. Firmly, but gently, press the edges against the hot iron for 5-10 seconds.  Do the top, bottom and sides one by one.

4. Then press the front of the flap and lay it face down to cool off and stiffen into it's new and improved shape!

 

Getting Rid of Bulk in Your Corners

One question a customer recently asked me how to get the corners just perfect on the Box Wallet. It might be impossible to get them perfectly flat but one thing that can help with any corner is to trim notches out of the interfacing.

Just cut a square out of each corner of your interfacing before you iron it to your fabric. You want it to extend beyond where your seam allowance would be to ease the bulk from the corner.

For a standard corner (i.e. NOT boxed) I generally use a 0.50" square since most of my seam allowances are right around 0.25".  For the Box Wallet you'll want to cut the interfacing away past where you would box it, so a 0.75"-1" square should help get those corners as flat as possible.

Sewing Tip - Use Binder Clips

As I sell more patterns I want to be able to be able to offer extra sewing tips, more detailed explanations of some steps for those new to sewing and some fun and easy pattern modifications.

This first tip is so simple but will help give you really nice results:

Use binder clips instead of pins when working with multiple layers of fabric and interfacing on small projects.

 

The clips hold the layers in place without bunching it up like pins and they are easy to remove as you go along.  Do NOT fold the wires down when sewing and make sure to hold your piece up as you sew so they don't snag on anything as they move up towards the needle. 

I find them really useful for making sure pockets stay lined up on the Business Card Wallet, Checkbook Wallet and for making purse straps.

Binder clips can be found at any office supply store.   

Happy Sewing!