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Sewing Classes

« Selvedge Issue 47 | Main | Skirt Sew Along - Cutting the Pieces »

January 09, 2015

Comments

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Juliet

If you want to go with the small waist and xs hip measurements do you still make the adjustments at CF and CB or do you make a line that blends from one size to the other along the side seam? Thanks!

Michelle (michellepatterns.com)

Hi Juliet,

This change can be made along the side seam, but since the seam between A/B & E/F is slightly curved it's not as straight forward as matching up the edges of pieces and drawing a new line.

But it can be made to your paper pieces, or you can make the straight small and take in the hip when we sew the side seams.

If you are up for it, just do it on paper:

Cut out the small E and then look at it closely compared to the uncut small F.

The curved edges of E & F differ by 0.25" because the pieces actually meet lower due to the seam allowance.

To blend the sizes you'd need to move the CB of the small E piece in 0.25"from the CB of F and then blend the hip of the two sizes together.

Then trace your change on A/C/B for the front.

Michelle

Lynda

Yikes! I must have misunderstood something here, help please :)

My natural waist is 27.25" and my hips 39", so I was going to make a size small and adjust the waist. If I remove 2'' from the yoke waist (1/2" from each pattern piece) and also remove 1/2" from the skirt front and back won't that make the hips too small?

OR should I make an XS and grade out the hips? I understand how to grade up or down between the sizes but with the yoke in between and the above instructions I am unsure how to choose?

thanks heaps in advance for your guidance.

Michelle (michellepatterns.com)

Hi Lynda,

Yes, work on bringing the waist of the small in, while leaving the hips alone.

These changes shown here are uniform changes, so yes, if you take 0.5" off the center seams the hips become too small because everything scales down uniformly.

What you want to do is to take 0.5" off at the top side seam corner of A and then blend the line down to the bottom corner of A.

You want to maintain the length of the curve at the top of A though, so you may need to add in some paper (maybe not) and then use the top edge of E to trace that curve onto your new A with the tapered waist. Then make the same change to E.

Michelle

Carol A.J.

Help! I have paid for my class and printed out the pattern - but !!!!! my cleaning lady threw out the pages of the pattern. Then on New Year's Eve my computer crashed so I can't re-print them. Can you send it to me again? I am behind the curve and want to catch up.
Carol

Michelle (michellepatterns.com)

Hi Carol: A new download link has been sent to your email address. -Michelle

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