The pieces for a medium size Pleated Wristlet in a black and gold brocade fabric have been cut out for a few weeks now, but I wanted to quilt the lining with metallic gold thread, which was something I didn't have in my thread collection. I finally picked the thread up the other day, and now it is time to sew this wristlet.
This brocade is synthetic and can't be pressed, so I can't interface these pieces with anything fusible. This fabric also has an embossed texture and doesn't crease easily, making it mildly uncooperative during pleating. To make it easier I'm using a stainless steal ruler to help fold the fabric.
This method can be used for pleating difficult fabrics, or anytime you want really crisp folds. If your fabric can be pressed, a stainless steal ruler can be left in the folds and pressed right over. It will get hot, but won't melt. I love metal rulers!
Here are some photos to illustrate...
Line up ruler with one of the center pleat lines:
Fold the fabric over the ruler:
Hold the fabric in place and slide the ruler out from under the fabric. I pull it down and out the bottom.
Reposition the ruler along the exterior fold line:
Fold the fabric back over the ruler:
Hold the fabric in place again, remove the ruler, and pin the pleat in place. So easy!
P.S. This fabric also gets pin holes that won't close, so I've pinned in the allowance to avoid any holes. The dark fabric mostly hides them, but I try to avoid them anyway.










ooooh ... that purse is going to be gorgeous ... great tip, too ... i use my metal rulers all the time ... i have one with a cork-like back that does NOT slide when tracing patterns pieces ...
Posted by: darlene | January 30, 2012 at 09:27 AM
Awesome tip, thanks! What I sometimes do if I can't press the fabric itself, is to run the iron over my ironing board with the steam on for about 10 seconds. Then I'll move the iron and finger press my fabric on the area that I just ironed. The steam helps keep the folds pressed well, even though I'm only finger-pressing.
Posted by: Jolene | January 30, 2012 at 06:18 AM