{michellepatterns.com}

What I Made Last Week

Last week seemed pretty productive for me.  Besides a couple pouches I've already shown, here are some other things I finished last week:

Tiny Clutch (Keychain Clutch)

I used this fabric from Lecien's Fabulous Blooming collection:

Then I made this fold-over clutch/big pouch using a print called Paris Apartment Le Chintz Moderne:

It is about 12" wide x 7" high (folded) x 4" deep (31cm x 18cm x 10cm).  There is a patch pocket inside. 

I also started another Quilt as You Go scrap quilt.  This one I'm cutting free hand and will use the red centers and sashing to bring it all together into a semi-coherent scrappy mess.  So far I've made two blocks, but have only quilted one.  Here is the first finished block:

Here is a very small dumpling pouch:

It was fun to make and is so, so cute! But I need to work on my technique and pattern piece.  The sides are slightly different sizes. 

Here is the inside:

I also made two of these.  One sold and is on the way to Japan. 

What did you start/finish this week? 

Mail Bag

Here is something I don't think I've shown here yet.  This bag was the precursor to the Grocery Bag. 

I was so excited about this bag, and had grandiouse plans to make it the world's most perfect grocery tote!  It is the same size as a large paper grocery bag, and then it has two good sized pockets on the outside--one each side. 

I was going to add a clear vinyl pocket to one side near the top, so the grocery list could go inside.  Then I'd fold the bag up and put it in the front of the cart and be able to see my list.  Then I realized the vinyl pocket wouldn't wash well, and the bag does sometimes need to be washed.  Oh well--reality sometimes trumps a few of my ideas. 

So I made the bag super sturdy.  The inside is cotton duck and then I boxed the bottoms, but left the extra triangles of fabric in place and sewed them down to act as support for the bottom. 

Off I went to the grocery store...and the bag was way too bulky to be practical.  My basic theory is if the grocery bag can't be folded/wadded up and put inside your everyday bag, then it won't be easy to take and it probably won't make it to the store often.

Then the clerk struggled to get things inside since it doesn't sit upright.  So that was the end of my grandiouse grocery bag plan. 

But the great news is this bag is fabulous for taking packages to the post office!  In the photo above it has 8 packages inside.  Sticking out the top of the front pocket are my completed customs forms. 

Once I load it up with packages, I put it on my bike and ride to the post office:

Forgive the milk crate--my regular rear basket is a lovely wicker basket.  But it is really big, which is nice sometimes, and then other times I wish it was not so big.  So I tried out the milk crate. 

P.S.  This bike is so wonderful!  Do you want to hear more about it?  I could go on and on...

 

 

 

Fabulous Blooming Cherry Dots

Fabulous Blooming

_    _    _    _    _    _    _    _    _    _    _    _

Last week a box of fabric bolts arrived on my doorstep!  I've been slowly adding the fabric listings to my etsy shop in the fabric section.  Stop by and take a look.

Besides the thrill of having a lot of new fabric around, I'm having fun making things with these new prints. 

So far I've used this print to make the pouch from earlier in the week.  The one pictured at the top is one of my favorites. I'm just waiting for the inspiration to strike and show me what to make with this adorable print.

 

 

Covering Zipper Ends

As mentioned yesterday, here is the general idea of how to make this style of zipper. This doesn't include instructions for a pouch--it assumes you already know the basics of making zippered pouches.

You could use this type of zipper on any pouch, but it probably works best on pouches with some depth.  It might look odd on a flat pouch.

Mind the Gap

Before you use this kind of zipper, keep in mind there is going to be a small gap below the zipper on both sides of the finished pouch:

All the purses I've seen with this kind of zipper have this gap, so I'm not sure if it can be closed off. It isn't a big deal as long as you aren't using your pouch for really tiny things, but I wanted to point out that it is there.

Trim Zipper

If you are making a pouch that is a specific size, you might need to trim your zipper to a determined length.  I'm just improvising here and making this pouch to fit this zipper. 

I trimmed about half of both ends of the zipper tape away:

This means my finished zipper will be about 0.5" shorter than it's original size. 

Make End Covers

Cut two pieces of fabric about 3" high x 2" wide (8cm x 5cm). 

Fold ends up about 0.25" (7mm) at top & bottom:

Fold the sides in to meet in the center:

Attach Covers

Slide one end of the zipper into one end of a cover:

Fold it down to cover end of zipper and pin in place. 

If your zipper still has the stops attached, mark your fabric so you can avoid them when sewing.  Then sew the cover on:

Repeat to cover the other end.

Prepare Pouch Pieces

Since I'm improvising on my pouch size, I've cut the pieces the width of the length of the uncovered portion of my zipper + about 3/8" allowance on each side.  Then just fold and press the top sides in the width of your allowance:

Here is the back:

Attach Zipper

Sew the pouch pieces to the zipper. 

Sewing Pouch

When you sew the sides of the pouch, start sewing from the bottom and sew up into the fold creases.  Stop sewing about 1.25" - 1.5" (3 - 4cm) below the zipper:

Finishing

Turn the pouch right side out.  Pull the tabs to the right side through the gap on each side.

Slip stitch the lining & exterior layers together at the gap.

 

 

 

More Zippers!

Here is another pouch like this apple one from a few days back. I made this one using Le Chintz Moderne from the Paris Apartment collection by Bari J. for Lecien.

Stop by tomorrow and I'll show you how I covered the ends of the zipper to make these pouches. 

Cross-Body Bag Sewing Pattern

 

So you might have already noticed my post yesterday announcing the pattern for the Cross-Body Bags is ready.  It was pretty brief, so I'm writing a bit more here.

For the larger one in the photo above I used one of these eyelets and a strap as the closure.  Instructions for the eyelet aren't included in the pattern, but can be found right here.  The strap for the closure I added at the very end, and just sewed it directly to the back of the bag.  A VELCRO tab holds it down at the back of the bag. 

I also made this bag with the two ties on the front (in the pattern there is one on each side) and a loop.  At first I thought this would be the best closure, but it is easier harder to tie and while the loop does hold it in place, a hard tug will pull it through. 

I used ties for something a little different, and also since these are small bags it is nice to be able to use all of the interior space.  Adding a snap will work just fine too, but will take away a few inches of space at the top.  Another option would be a fabric (or elastic) loop and button. 

Both bags have two pockets--one exterior & one interior:

If you are feeling ambitious, you could add two additional pockets on the panels without them.  You can also make the back of the pocket (pocket lining) in the lining fabric like in this one:

 

The strap is two pieces sewn together, which doesn't necessarily use less fabric, but you can make the bag with a smaller cut of fabric.  Instead of needing 1.5 yards of fabric you only need a 1/2 or 3/4 yard cut.  But if you do have 1.5 yards of your strap fabric, go ahead and cut it on the straight grain--it will be faster.  

The strap is also really nice with o-rings:

For this bag and the larger one in the photo at the top, I used two 1" o-rings.  They add some weight so the bag feels more substantial and they also help keep the strap straight. 

And finally here is the one of the first of these bags:

This one has the same front pocket, but the bottom is like the Strap Clutch.  If you have made the Strap Clutch you could easily make this bag with that style bottom.  Just make the bottom corners come to points rather than the curves they have now.  The bottom pieces wouldn't be square, but more of a flat top pyramid shape.