This summer I'm going back and sprucing up some of my older patterns so they are formatted the same as the newer ones and just generally trying to improve them where I can. Every pattern I've made has been through at least a few changes over time. The questions people ask are often very helpful in figuring out what needs a little tweaking.
A couple people have overlooked the seam allowance in the general info section, so I'm trying to make it more obvious and thought I might run two seam allowance questions by you...
1. Do you like using the edge of the presser foot as the seam allowance or would you rather it were shown as a specific measurement (1/4" or 3/8")?
One of the things you may have noticed with my patterns is that I almost always use the "edge of the presser foot" as the allowance. This is not a standard allowance in the sewing world, but it is such an accurate and easy seam gauge to follow that I'm reluctant to change it to a specific measurement.
The standard presser foot on most machines is roughly the same size. Of the four machines in my house the standard presser feet vary in width by 1/8". But because they are not all exactly the same, using the edge of the presser foot as the allowance means the pattern user is sewing anywhere from 1/4"-3/8" depending on the machine.
The other thing I like about the edge of the presser foot is it easily translates between the US customary units of measurement and the metric system without having to provide both specific measurements. I'm working on adding centimeters to the patterns, but must admit the metric system is a little bit baffling to me since we don't use it here in the US. All my patterns are designed using inches, so sometimes I have to round off the centimeters. Which leads me to my next question...
2. What is imprinted on the throat plate of sewing machines sold in countries that use the metric system?
I'm assuming it must be millimeters. I would love to see a photo if anyone has a minute to snap one and email it to me or post it somewhere online.
Here is what mine looks like:
P.S. Does the metric system use half centimeters???? Sometimes I show them as 12.5cm, but maybe that makes no sense?
Hi!
Not sure if you've already figured this out but
yes, the numbers at the bottom of your throat plate are metric numbers. As far as I can see they are in mm, 15 and 20 mm. The line inside would be 10 mm, approx 3/8" :-) Please let me know if you still want another picture of a throat plate. I have a Pfaff and on that I have both metric and inches so you great patterns works well just the way they are ;-)
Posted by: Cecilia | July 16, 2009 at 03:35 PM
I have quite a few patterns and love them as well! At first, I was concerned about the "edge of the presser foot" allowance, because often times I use a walking foot on my machine to make sure the layers don't shift. I think actual measurements might be helpful, especially to beginners, but I've gotten used to your style, (which is ingenious in some of the little details that you have thrown in. ^_^) so I'm good with either.
Just thought I would throw my two cents in!
Melissa
Posted by: Melissa | July 13, 2009 at 05:43 PM
I really appreciate the "edge of the presser foot" allowance! It stresses me out when patterns give a very specific seem allowance and I usually end up not following it anyhow. I hope you don't change this. :)
Posted by: Kayla | July 10, 2009 at 02:52 PM
I looked at my throat plate more closely and I realized how strange it is. I have a new Brother and the default needle position is the far left. I always switch it to far right or middle. But the markings on the throat plate are only valid if you keep it in the far left position. The 1/4" line is straight down the middle of the presser foot!
Posted by: Erin | July 09, 2009 at 05:13 PM
I really appreciate that you use the "edge of the presser foot". It is just one of the many reasons that I keep coming back to your patterns.
My machine is a Singer that is about 3 years old. It have lines marked on the plate, but no measurements. So it can be frustrating to be raring to go on a project and then have to stop and measure everything to make sure that I'm still doing things correctly.
Just my $.02
Posted by: Amy | July 09, 2009 at 05:13 PM
I live in England and the plate on my relatively new Brother is in inches.
I grew up with the metric system but had to learn about inches for sewing, when I first started I had no idea and bought a metric ruler. You're right to show half a cm as .5 and a quarter is .25, be sure to state if you are showing the measurement as millimeters e.g. 125mm, centimeters e.g 12.5cm or meters e.g. 0.125m - I'd stick with cms.
As for the other question, I do use the edge of the foot as a guide but I like to know the seam allowance measurement as 1/4" or 1/8" etc so I know what setting to get the machine at.
Posted by: Gillian | July 09, 2009 at 09:10 AM
Thank you Julie and Erin for the thoughtful responses! I just noticed looking at my throat plate there are some measurements at the bottom that might be millimeters? I will have to investigate further...
Posted by: keyka | July 08, 2009 at 10:15 PM
I think "edge of presser foot" is fine! Here's why:
I don't follow exact seam allowance suggestions anyway (usually 1/8" to 1/4") because my machine does not feed well when stitching right at the edge. It does best with the needle in the center position and the fabric going all the way to the edge of the presser foot. I can adjust my needle position, but I have to remember where I adjusted it to and it adjusts in 0.5mm increments anyway, so I'd have to physically measure a 1/4" I do have a 1/4" piecing foot, but it has a guide on the side so it does not work for going around curves. If I'm using my wider open-toe foot then I take that into account. Honestly, if someone is truly a beginner - your beginner patterns like the business card wallet and the envelope clutch won't be ruined if someone uses a slightly different seam allowance. I top stitched way too far in on the business card wallet and it still had enough room for cards. Part of sewing is trial and error. Your patterns teach so much more than other patterns I have used, but some things you just have to figure out and get a feel for yourself. You just give people a great place to start!
Posted by: Erin | July 08, 2009 at 02:26 PM
Hi! I've sewn a couple of your patterns and absolutely love them! They're gorgeous and wonderfully written - even a sewing beginner like myself (advanced beginner, perhaps, but still) can follow them with no trouble at all. However, I have to admit I was a bit troubled by the 'edge of presser foot' seam allowance - I might be a special case, but I'm currently sewing on an antique Singer, which has a very oddly shaped foot. For me, the right edge of the foot would be maybe a touch over 1/8"! I just went with 1/4" seam allowance and had no trouble. On the other hand, if I had a normal machine, I'd love the 'edge of the presser foot' measurement, it really helps me keep lines nice and straight.
As for the metric stuff - I'm an American who has lived in Europe for half my life and I now use both systems, depending on what I'm doing - though both imperfectly. :) A half centimeter - such as your 12.5cm example - is perfectly acceptable, anything under that is most often (as far as I understand, at least!) measured in millimeters.
I can't help much with the sewing machine plate - my antique Singer doesn't have any measurements at all. But I did have a machine bought in Holland for a while, and I seem to remember that it actually had both, but I can't be sure about that. Hopefully someone else can help there!
I hope that helps a bit - thanks so much for your lovely patterns and all the tips you share here!
Posted by: Julie | July 08, 2009 at 01:35 PM